Sunday, December 25, 2011

Drip Irrigation Tips & Tricks With Farmer Fred

!±8± Drip Irrigation Tips & Tricks With Farmer Fred

www.dripworksusa.com - Our friend Farmer Fred shows some of the drip irrigation from Dripworks that he has installed at his farm. He also explains some of the tools that make installing drip irrigation so much easier.

Drip Irrigation Tips & Tricks With Farmer Fred

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Thursday, December 15, 2011

Solar Drip Irrigation Project - Benin, West Africa

!±8± Solar Drip Irrigation Project - Benin, West Africa

The Solar Electric Light Fund (SELF) helps farmers in Benin grow food during the dry season, using solar water pumping and drip irrigation.

Solar Drip Irrigation Project - Benin, West Africa

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Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Premium Drip Irrigation Kit for Small Farms

!±8± Premium Drip Irrigation Kit for Small Farms

Brand : Small Farm Irrigation Kits | Rate :

| Price :
Post Date : Nov 22, 2011 16:36:49 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Kit includes: (2) 3/4" Perma-Loc x 3/4" Female Hose Thread Swivel Adapter (2) 750 ft - 5/8" 15Mil Drip Tape .25 GPH - 12" Spacing (20) 5/8" Perma-Loc Tape Barbed Takeoff Valve (2) 3/4" Perma-Loc Hose End Cap (1) 250 feet - 3/4 inch Poly Mainline Tubing .940 OD x.820 ID. (2) Hose Thread Backflow Preventer (2) 3/4" Hose Thread Filter (2) 15 PSI - 3/4" Hose Thread Pressure Reducer (1) Pro Punch - 1/4" Hole (30) Goof Plug (150) Steel Wire Stake for the Tubing (20) 5/8" Perma-Loc Tape End CapThe Premium Drip Irrigation Kit for Small Farms includes over 234 high quality irrigation parts. This is a complete, self contained drip irrigation kit that comes with everything you need to create a working system. Everything is included to hook up to any standard water faucet or garden hose connection. Only hand tightening is required for all of the threaded irrigation parts.Drip Depot irrigation kits are the leading brand of drip irrigation kit in America. We have been designing and building our drip irrigation kits in the USA for years using only the highest quality components. In fact, many of the components of our kits are actually "agricultural quality", meaning they are designed and manufactured for the harsh conditions found in commercial agricultural use. We design our kits with these components because we know they will last for many years without failure.

Agricultural quality components for years of trouble free operation
.25 gph emitters spaced every 12 inches
Very Easy to Install
Maximum line length: 500 ft. Maximum GPH 480
Operating Pressure 10 - 15 psi

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Friday, October 21, 2011

Conserving Water This Summer In Your Yard

!±8± Conserving Water This Summer In Your Yard

Many state water districts estimate that homeowners use over 50% of their summer water for landscape irrigation. In light of global warming and drought, doesn't that make you feel a little guilty? It's time to end our long, luscious love affair with needy, thirsty plants. We all had a good time and have fond memories of those days spent in the hot August sun running around with the hose, all codependent! Yards that conserve water with drought tolerant or native plants are now all the rage.

My life-coach pal at CoachBetty.com always says, "It's time to change your perspective. Think out of the BOX!" It's time to shift our "backyard" mindset and "think out of the LAWN." Planting huge lawns and thirsty ornamentals is like driving a gas-guzzler and wearing pink leg-warmers. That's so 80's! Growing natives and drought tolerant groundcovers is like driving a hybrid and texting on your Strawberry-Chocolate cell phone.
OMG! DYGI? (Oh my God! Do you get it?)

Growing natives will provide you with a beautiful, low-maintenance landscape while lowering your water bill. It's probably too hot to actually do the transformation in your yard this month, but start designing a plan ready to rip and rock in the fall. In autumn you'll want to remove high maintenance plants that just aren't cutting it.

Questions to ask yourself:

Does the plant demand lots of water?

Is it needy and cranky in the summer heat?

(If yes, ask yourself why you attracted such a whiner.)

Did it bloom profusely and make you look like a horticultural wizard?

If not, it's time to do some plant tossing straight into the compost pile.

Before digging in new plants, work a good amount of organic matter(compost) into your soil and after you plant, cover the soil with mulch. Amended soil will retain more water than soil lacking organic matter. Amended soil is populated by micro and macro organisms that excrete nutrients and aerate your soil, allowing water to reach down to the roots.

Last month I attended an informative class at Suburban Habitat in Novato, Ca. led by Ryan Grisso, our Water Conservation Coordinator and landscape designer Matt Buchholz. I asked, "How can a dirt diva make her yard look spectacular in the hot summer sun with the least amount of mental and physical labor?" The answer is twofold: A diverse selection of native plants and a reliable, efficient timer controlling your drip system.

Buchholz recommends Ceanothus (California Lilac) and Archtostaphylos (Manzanita), two easy native shrubs. "Both are evergreen, yet require little water. Additionally, both plants can be found in a variety of forms from ground covers all the way to tree-like large shrubs. Ceanothus boasts lovely purple to blue flowers in the late spring or early summer that are enjoyed by bees & butterflies. Archtostaphylos is admired for its twisted, smooth, orange to mahogany colored trunks & branches, a true California classic."

Okay Buchholz, I understand the beauty of Ceanothus but Manzanita puts me to sleep. How about some color for us Type-A gardeners who want our backyards plants blooming and strutting like flamboyant rock stars?

I sensed he rolled his eyes, but we we're on the phone so I can't say for sure. Some perennials he suggests are Erigeron glaucus 'Cape Sebastian which' is a native replacement for the ubiquitous Santa Barbara daisy as well as many varieties of native Salvia, or Sage, such as Salvia Clevelandii, or Salvia 'Bee's Bliss'. Other colorful water wise natives to consider are Mimulus (Monkey Flower) varieties, Iris douglasiana and Fremontodendron (Flannel Bush), which requires almost no water and features nice structural form, fig-like leaves, and large yellow flowers. And for striking year-round blue-gray foliage color, plant groupings of Festuca idahoensis.

Replacing your lawn with a low-growing ground cover that requires less mowing, maintenance and water is the way of the future. If your lawn has light foot traffic, you may want to try these ground covers instead: Prunella incisa,Chamomile, Creeping thyme, Lippia, Scotch or Iris moss.

For more native plant information with photos, pick up a copy of California Native Plants for the Garden published by Cachuma Press In the meantime, remind you local nursery staff that "green is the new pink!" It's time to order a broad selection of native plants.

Grisso has some recommendations to conserve water this summer:

This will keep you from fainting when you see your summer water bill . . .

1.Reduce the run times on your irrigation system by lowering the minutes per cycle. (Reduce the run times by 2 minutes for every ten minutes set.)

2. Replace turf with low water use state natives, which once established, will adapt to grow in our climate with no watering in the summer.

3.Install drip irrigation with 1/2 gallon emitters and heavily mulch.

4.Irrigate between midnight and 6am to reduce water loss from evaporation and wind.

Visit Annie at dirtdiva.com and bring your friends!

Conserving Water This Summer In Your Yard

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Monday, October 17, 2011

Building and Remodeling - What Does Green Mean?

!±8± Building and Remodeling - What Does Green Mean?

There is a lot of chatter, these days, about "going green" in homebuilding and remodeling, but what does "green" really mean? House hunters and homeowners wanting to make a positive environmental impact are finding that green can mean virtually anything a marketer says it does. As with every other growing consumer trend, a variety of marketers have discovered the sales boost a green claim can give, and it's sometimes difficult to distinguish facts from hype.

No universal standard yet

It would certainly be helpful if there were an "official" definition for what makes a building, project, or product "green," but, at this point, there isn't. At least, not yet, but it's coming. The National Association of Homebuilders is working on a national green building standard, and they have certified several hundred contractors in green building practices. There are also organizations that provide levels of certification for homes and remodels built with green features, such as the nonprofit U.S. Green Building Council with its LEED certification program. Similar certification programs exist in many states, and even in some municipalities. For consumer appliances, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has the ENERGY STAR rating system. However, the "green" field is so wide, that with many products and materials, and even with some supposedly "green built" homes, consumers are still on their own in determining the legitimacy of green claims. The caveat here is the same as with any other type of consumer purchase: whatever the size of your project, doing thorough research up front will help you make choices you'll be satisfied with, not just when the project's done, but for years to come.

Common features of green built projects

Despite the absence of a universal standard, green built projects do tend to have a number of features in common. If you want your own project to create a positive impact -- on the environment, on your comfort and health, and even on your utility bills -- you now have more choices than ever in eco-friendly designs, methods, and materials. Generally speaking, if your project can incorporate one or more of the following features, you're on the right track.

Site the project in such a way that: The new structure will make use of natural heating and cooling principles such as shade and passive solar. The construction process and the building itself have a minimal adverse impact on the site.

Reuse an existing structure rather than build a new one.Deconstruct rather than demolish, if all or part of an existing structure must be replaced. Reuse materials from the old structure where possible.Consider using salvaged materials from other sources.Use materials made from recycled content where possible.Recycle as much project waste as possible.Use building materials efficiently.Use energy efficiently:Incorporate insulation into structural members (e.g., structural insulated panels) as well as walls and attic. Use low-e (low emissivity) windows. Use a high-efficiency heating/cooling system. Design to recycle waste heat. Design-in lighting fixtures that utilize fluorescent or halogen bulbs, rather than incandescent bulbs.

Choose materials and products with low or no toxic emissions (e.g., wall board, cabinets, carpets, paint and other finishes).Choose sustainably harvested natural products (e.g., wood products that are certified sustainably harvested, bamboo flooring, carpets made of natural fibers).
Choose materials, where possible, that come from local sources (e.g., local quarries for stone, or anything that didn't have to get shipped long distances).Use water efficiently:

Use water-saving appliances, such as low-flow or dual flush toilets and a tankless water heater. Design to recycle wastewater (greywater systems). Design to capture and store rainwater (sometimes called rainwater harvesting). Choose landscaping that is climate-appropriate (e.g., if you're living in a permanently arid climate, consider xeriscaping instead of sod). If you choose landscaping that will need irrigation, design-in a drip, soaker, or emitter system controlled by a climate-sensor and timing device.

Choose what's right for you

There's room for flexibility. "Going green," says energy writer Marilyn Lewis, "can mean anything from where and how you build a home to the appliances and materials you pick, to strategies for cutting water and energy waste." This applies to remodeling projects as well. If you can't do as much as you'd like because of budget or other considerations, heed Lewis's advice: it's OK, you can be "a little bit green." Know what you want out of your new space, and do your "homework." Even a few carefully chosen features can help to lower your energy bills, improve your family's comfort and health, and potentially even improve the resale value of your home.

Building and Remodeling - What Does Green Mean?

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Friday, September 30, 2011

Ultimate Drip Irrigation Kit for Small Farms

!±8±Ultimate Drip Irrigation Kit for Small Farms

Brand : Small Farm Irrigation Kits
Rate :

Price :
Post Date : Sep 30, 2011 14:49:37
Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Kit includes: (2) 250 feet - 3/4 inch Poly Mainline Tubing .940 OD x.820 ID. (2) 3/4" Perma-Loc Hose End Cap (2) 3/4" Perma-Loc x 3/4" Female Hose Thread Swivel Adapter (1) 4265 ft - 5/8" 15Mil Drip Tape .25 GPH - 12" Spacing (25) 5/8 inch Perma-loc Tape x 400 Barb Shut-off Valve (1) 3/4" Perma-Loc Hose Coupling (1) 7.0mm Punch for 400 Barb (2) Hose Thread Backflow Preventer (2) 3/4" Hose Thread Filter (2) 15 PSI - 3/4" Hose Thread Pressure Reducer (200) Galvanized Steel Wire Stake for 1/2" Tubing (25) 5/8" Perma-Loc Tape End Cap

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Sunday, August 28, 2011

Drip Irrigation 500ft Roll 1/2" (.600 ID X .700 OD) Pressure Compensating Drip Line with .5 gph in-line drippers every 12"

!±8±Drip Irrigation 500ft Roll 1/2" (.600 ID X .700 OD) Pressure Compensating Drip Line with .5 gph in-line drippers every 12"

Brand : 1/2" Dripline
Rate :

Price :
Post Date : Aug 28, 2011 19:56:11
Usually ships in 1-2 business days

1/2" (.600 ID X .700 OD) black pressure compensating drip line with in-line drippers every 12". High uniformity and even distribution of water for even saturation of desired area. Featuring Naan PC Emitters.Clog Resistant - Dependable * Self- flushing: every irrigation cycle is preceded and followed by an automatic flushing cycle as well as an on-demand cleaning during operation. * Two 180º opposing independent inlet filters protect each emitter. This guarantees that one inlet always takes water from an area where sediment has not collected between irrigations. * Built-in filtration prevents those particles, which may clog the emitter due to their size, from entering. * Large turbulent flow path allows particles to pass freely. * Features multiple water outlets to prevent re-entry of dirt during the vacuum phase at the end of each irrigation cycle.Flowrate Uniformity - Accurate * Constant discharge over a pressure range of 7 - 60 psi. * Improved water and fertilizer management. * Cost effective way to irrigate crops in difficult topographical conditions, low and varying water pressures and where longer laterals are required. * Very accurate PC emitter production with Cv values less than 5%Versatility-Leadership * Economical choice for vineyards, orchards, and row crops. * May be hung on a wire, laid on the ground, or buried.Wear Resistant Design - Reliable * Manufactured from the highest quality materials; polyethylene body and silicon diaphragm. * Maintains its design flow rate over many years of use. * Withstands acids down to pH2 as well as chemicals, fertilizers, and chlorine. * State-of-the art manufacturing. * High standards of quality control.

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Monday, August 15, 2011

Landscaping Weed Barrier Fabric - How to Install Landscape Fabric

!±8± Landscaping Weed Barrier Fabric - How to Install Landscape Fabric

When using landscaping fabric, preparing the ground for the project is as important as the quality of materials used. While many people have been weed barrier directly over existing or newly prepared area, the best performance and long-term results are quite good with the preparation.

Getting Started

Measure and mark the territory. Most professionals use inverted marking paint, but you can also use string, sticks, stones, pipes, or whatever you have available. Purchase order orHis landscape fabric to ensure that it is obvious when you start the project.

Remove all plants

Once the project areas is measured and marked, remove all vegetation. Depending on the area you work, there are several ways to remove trees and vegetation.

In the meadows that are covered and / or regions, we almost always around a double application of a non-selective herbicide such as. Make sure the area is actively growing, sprayHerbicide according to instructions, and then let it do its job. Within 5-7 days after application, irrigation of the area to start the growth of what has survived and all the seeds, which can boost vital. Repeat the application of herbicides. You may also want to repeat again if necessary.

In some cases we use a sod cutter to remove the top few inches of turf. In general, this is, after killing all the weeds, and is usually done to explore the region and make room for mulch, stones or otherOverburden.

I have seen other professionals to install landscape fabric over areas that are only cut turf, but were not killed with a herbicide. I can not recommend. Sod cutters only cut off the top of the lawn and really nothing to kill the roots. This could be a future problem, if you have deep roots aggressive weeds or grasses such as Bermuda.

For non-turf areas and old bed, you can talk to the method herbicide. And for all areas, including lawnAreas, you can use the method of herbicides or solorization.

Sunburn is basically baking the soil and expose it to extremely high temperatures that kill weed seeds and vegetation. This process is very simple and it works very well, but takes the longest to do.

Paving the way

If you plant to plant in areas where you plan to install the fabric, it is necessary to work in soil amendments and nutrients before installation. If possible, I recommend using slow-release organic fertilizerNutrients and compost. Try also the pH of the soil and add lime or sulfur in the right quantity, if necessary.

Once the weed barrier exists, is only able to add chemical fertilizers surface applied and will not be able to work the land. Of course you can add the changes to each hole as you plant the plant. However, it is time consuming, messy, and not through the root zone of the system to be extended.

Use a bar or spade, and amendmentsNutrients from 4 to 6 inches in the soil surface. Remove stones, sticks, debris and clods break. Rake the surface smooth.

Install irrigation systems

If you have an idea of where you and your plants are expected to have an automatic drip irrigation, now is the time to put it. Place the main tube and power to run and drip emitters, in which your plants are. If you are planning a bubbler system, should be installed before the area wasmaintained.

Installing the Fabric

The easiest way to do this is to put the first barrier, before planting your plants. Some people recommend safety pins to hold the material in its place. There is an option. However, if you prefer to save money, you can hold down the edges with the floor covering you want to use. We normally only place or a stack bags of mulch, stone, or other ground cover along the edges and spreads from there, if we are ready plants.

I also saw aSome people plant the crop and then inserting the tops of the plants. This is usually tough on vegetation, breaking branches, and time-consuming.

It can be cut with a sharp knife or razor blade, useful stuff, but the best and easiest way we found that runs along the cut is to use a pair of sharp scissors. And instead of working the scissors, hold them ajar, where the leaves form a "V". Store the material in which both blades come together in "V" and push it through theCloth.

Plant

Mark your site or where the plants, have a vision. Use a sharp knife, razor blade or scissors and cut an "x" in the fabric of the size of the pot or root ball. Do not cut the size of the pot outside. Cut the "x" and bend the fins. Make the hole. Location and work the system properly. Gently place the plant near the edges.

Now place 2 to 4 inches of your chosen ground cover over the area and make sure to keep the flap cut and hold it in place.

AverageLandscaping to ensure the excess material along the edges, remains close to the edges.

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Monday, August 8, 2011

Rain Bird Xerigation XCZ-100:

!±8± Rain Bird Xerigation XCZ-100:

Rate :

| Price : | Post Date : Aug 09, 2011 00:25:04
Usually ships in 1-2 business days

1 inch Rain Bird Control Zone Kit preassembled drip line filter and valve.

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Friday, August 5, 2011

10 tips Great success Planting your trees and shrubs or

!±8± 10 tips Great success Planting your trees and shrubs or

These steps are for lower levels of the design of the desert Southwest. But it can be applied to almost every area.

1 Water - This is the most important factor. Need all the trees and shrubs on a daily basis for at least the first 2-3 weeks after planting, water them. 3-5 gallons or water for 5 ga. Tree. This is very critical during the summer months.

2 To ensure a successful planting, do not fertilize right after planting the tree or shrub. Use a good rootStimulator to stimulate root growth. Do not fertilize during the winter months. Use a good all purpose tree or shrub fertilizer immediately after the last frost (usually after the march in the south-west) of water about twice a month in December, January and March. Normally, you should fertilize once in spring, summer and autumn.

3 The land south-west no acid to help with a good compost with some acid to development, when to plant roots.

4 If you are confident with a drip systemthat the emitter directly over the lump of tree or plant. A few inches can cause insuffcient water your plant. Many plants are to "plant heaven", because this error away.

5 Fertilize your tree or shrub with a good fertilizer for all uses will be very close to an analysis by 08/08/16. The yellowed leaves are sometimes a lack of iron in the soil. Add a fertilizer with iron, liquid iron or ironic.

6 Remember that most trees and shrubs needabout 6 monts settled in about 1 year before they are. Once established Nearly all plants require less water.

7 native plants need water as much as other plants during the first year. Once established they will grow normally with much less water. Once a month during the winter and about 1 per week during the hot dry summer months.

See our trees here Southwest

8 Make sure the root ball intact on all container plants when planting them. Protect the roots. ThePlant will be able to go die in a state of extreme shock.

9 Remove any weeds and stones and disable, which may be in the area. Weeds suck water and nutrients from the soil. Large rocks or debris preventing the development of roots.

10 To control and constantly monitor your tree, shrub or plant, there are no signs of disease or insect problems. Insects love a new leaf growth. Diseases are usually fungus. The symptoms are wilting, slow growth, yellow leaves in summerMonths. I do not know what the problem might be? Cut a, limb branch or leaf and put it in your local nursery or greenhouse. They have the most knowledgeable people around horticulture.

The suggestions above are usually for the U.S. southwest.

Following the above steps will contribute to a healthy tree, shrub or plant for a lifetime of experience landscape.

You can also read the article at: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/successful-planting.htm

10 tips Great success Planting your trees and shrubs or

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Sunday, July 31, 2011

Find the best drip irrigation kits

!±8± Find the best drip irrigation kits

There is much to consider when looking for the best drip irrigation kits. You must decide how much you care and what materials you need to drip irrigation. There are a few things before you purchase your new kit to be determined.

I'm sure you saw all the different possibilities for the drip irrigation kits, drip irrigation kit drip and micro-kits. Many people get confused between terms. I have news for you relief. They mean the same thing! This isWhat should you do before the kit and shopping.

You must plan your system, hoses and nozzles to decide how much of your needs. Draw a sketch of the area you plan to drip irrigation, and to determine how many plants you need water.

Then you need to understand the type of terrain. You can do this by a handful of soil is dry, take hold firmly and release. A rough and sandy soil will fall apart. A clay soil and medium-sized to hold together, but breakslightly apart. Finally, a mold of clay and not fall apart. Now you can determine what type of soil you need and how many drops you need emitters per plant.

If you want an automatic irrigation, have a timer and drip irrigation controllers. Then you can use the activities of the irrigation system and the time when the task you want to leave to do.

Finding the right kit is simple drop. Find out how you need a lot of pipes and emitters, and determine the time plan. TheirOnly a new installation of drip irrigation.